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THE HISTORICAL ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COSTUME
ALBERT RACINET
THE CLASSIC WORK OF THE 19TH CENTURYp138-139
EUROPE FROM BYZANTIUM TO THE 19TH CENTURY - EUROPE
SPAIN
THE 13TH CENTURY
Upper Register
1.1 A young lady wearing a tiara of fine, embroidered material, decorated with pearls and precious stones and secured on the head by means of a barbuquejo - a wide ribbon passed underneath the chin. Despite the edicts of Alphonse X, the height of such headdresses increased during the last years of his reign.
Her hair hangs down in thick curls over her shoulders; this was the popular style among young Spanish girls. She is wearing the cloak, or pallium, that was worn by both noblemen and women and beneath it a pair of robes: a cyclas and a loba.
The man sitting at her side wears the same garments. The servant, clothed in a tunic made of coarse, brown wool of Saracen origin, is handing him a sealed letter. [See cantiga 64.]
1.2 A group of soldiers, whose leader is wearing a white loba. [See cantiga 119.]
1.3 Two women offering a man a faja - a scarf with fringes. Their tiaras are similar to the horn-shaped hats worn by Venetian ladies. The woman on the left is wearing a cyclas that takes the place of a bodice, whereas the woman on the right has a long tunic.
