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KNIGHT c.1205
An extract from Armies of Feudal Europe 1066-1300by Ian Heath
6. KNIGHT c.1205
This figure is taken from the Charlemagne Reliquary of c. 1200-7 in Aachen Cathedral. Practically identical figures appear in the Charlemagne window of c.1210 at Chartres Cathedral. There are two main differences from the last figure, these being the introduction of the surcoat and the substitution of a new type of helmet. Surcoats (sometimes called ‘gowns’ in contemporary sources) were probably introduced in imitation of Saracen dress during the Crusades. Nevertheless, it is usually said that they were intended to prevent the armour from overheating in the sun, while a 13th century source says they were to prevent the armour from getting wet: neither reason seems particularly probable. They appear in Western sources by c.1150 at the latest (the seal of c.1141-42 of Waleran de Beaumont, Comte de Meulan and Earl of Worcester, apparently being the first pictorial representation), while a 12th century Moslem writer, Usamah, seems to describe a long green and yellow silk surcoat, apparently sleeved, in a Crusade incident of c.1127. However, they were not widely worn until the early-13th century. Although some surcoats had long sleeves they were generally sleeveless, split at the front and back to facilitate riding, and generally belted by a cord at the waist. At first they were usually white or self coloured but by the end of the 12th century had begun to carry heraldic devices (though Joinville implies in one passage of his chronicle that in France they were still plain even in Louis IX’s reign). A fragment of a mid-13th century surcoat that survived until the 19th century was described as being made of a coarse lining overlaid with fine linen, on which the coat-of-arms was worked in embroidery and other pieces of sewn-on linen in the appropriate colours. Silk was also frequently used. Some were very sumptuously embroidered indeed, King Philippe IV of France telling Joinville that he had some which had cost as much as 800 livres parisis.
The helmet worn here, with the front extended into a face-guard, is an interim type between the ordinary open helmet and the fully-enclosing barrel helmet described under figure 8. This type first appeared c.1195 and evolved from helmets with separate faceguards attached, as depicted in 6b (Spanish, early-12th century), 6c (German, c.1180) and 6d (English c.1190). 6e, which dates to 1217, has the back extended even further down the neck than the helmet worn by the main figure. 6a shows a quilted head-defence worn under the helmet and coif by the beginning of the 13th century at the very latest. This was the arming-cap, which remained in use almost unchanged up to the mid-16th century. During the 13th century it became common headwear for the lower classes in peace as well as war and is often depicted in mss. being worn without a helmet by foot-soldiers.
[Based on Conquest of Pamplona on the Charlemagne Reliquary, Aachen Cathedral, ca. 1215
6b based on The Cardena Beatus Codex, Spain, 12th century, Archaeological Museum, Madrid
6c see 'Joshua's Battle Against the Amalekites'. The Hortus Deliciarum by Herrad of Landsberg, Hohenburg Abbey, 1185
6d based on Knights on Wall paintings from All Saints Church, Claverley, Shropshire, England
6e see Frescoes of 13th century North Italian Soldiers at Schloss Rodenegg (Rodeneck), 1215-1220]
